Studio is a new 5-star Mobil restaurant situated high atop an oceanside bluff alongside the beautiful Montage hotel in Laguna Beach, California. The restaurant opened in 2003 under Chef James Boyce, who defined the restaurant’s concept, blending modern French cuisine with California influences, featuring fresh, seasonal, and artisanal ingredients. Prior to joining Studio, James Boyce worked at Mary Elaine’s in Scottsdale, a 5-star Mobil restaurant at the time. After five years working with Studio, in 2009 Chef Boyce finally achieved a 5-star Mobil award for his signature restaurant. Ironically, just prior to this accomplishment, he announced his decision to leave Studio to become co-owner of another restaurant, Cotton Row, in Huntsville, Alabama.
At present, Studio is without a Chef de Cuisine, while most of James Boyce’s team remains in place and the two Sous Chefs in charge of the kitchen. The restaurant is searching for a new head chef, and with many qualified candidates vying for a job with the 5-star establishment, they are very close to an announcement of his successor. The menu remains for the moment intact, as conceptualized by Chef James Boyce, with only minor seasonal changes for garnishes and side dishes.
The weather for our visit to Studio was magnificent, sunny and warm, and having arrived early, we enjoyed walking around the grounds and admiring gorgeous views of the ocean and Laguna Beach. When it was time for our dinner, we were seated in a bright dining room surrounded by tall glass windows that offered a spectacular sunset view of the ocean shore. Right outside our window, several bunnies cheerfully munched the manicured grass and played around.

The staff at Studio was very warm and friendly and we enjoyed a pleasant discourse with them throughout the evening. Their knowledgeable sommelier recommended a lovely wine, Witness Tree Hanson 2005 Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley. Full-bodied and well-balanced, with notes of fruit and earth, it accentuated the fresh seasonal flavors from our Spring Tasting Menu, and paired well with both our fish and lamb courses to come.

We began with an amuse bouche, a delightful morsel of braised bacon and roasted yellow cherry tomatoes. These tomatoes were bursting with bright and fresh spring flavors and offered a perfect preview of the fresh ingredients in the Spring Tasting Menu.

For our first course, we had Green Garlic and Nettle Soup. Green Garlic is young garlic, resembling a scallion, and is more subtle and delicate than typical garlic. Nettle is an herb, used in cooking in a manner similar to spinach. The soup bowls arrived with a miniature pine nut panna cotta placed in the middle, and surrounded by several droplets of chive oil. The soup was then poured around the panna cotta at the table to complete the dish. We loved the delicate and sweet flavor of these ingredients, as the garlic and nettle combined nicely with the nutty and creamy panna cotta. This was an excellent Spring soup.

Our second course was a salad of baby greens accompanied by thin slices of radish and golden balsamic dressing. This salad was very enjoyable, and the fresh California produce continued the Spring Menu theme. However, we believe the dish was too simple to be served in a 5-star restaurant.
Next, we tried an oven roasted daurade, a white meaty fish from France. The daurade was roasted with its crispy skin on. I found the fish to be mild on its own, improved by addition of the citrus flavors from artichoke barigoule, fried capers and herb butter. The texture and salty taste from the crispy skin was essential to the dish. We also enjoyed a side dish for this course, red orach, also called mountain spinach or French spinach, and this green contributed a salty, spinach-like taste to the overall dish as well.

Our main course was lamb loin served with fava bean puree, pea tendrils, and rosemary port reduction. While we liked the mild smoky flavors of the lamb, it was not as tender as we had hoped it would be. We thought that the preparations for both fish and meat courses were too safe and overly simplistic.

Our cheese course was lovely, featuring a unique gouda-style Pondhopper cheese from Tumalo Farms in Oregon. This is a firm goat milk cheese made with a local microbrew, producing a mild flavor with sweet nuttiness and yeasty aroma. A delicate sunflower honey and juicy poached kishu tangerines were a perfect accompaniment to this delicious cheese.

We also loved the dark chocolate custard cake with coconut milk cream, honey dressing, and young coconut. This rich and decadent dessert was a wonderful ending to our meal.

Overall, we had a very enjoyable meal at the Studio’s charming dining room with its stunning ocean views. Although the menu was safe and a bit too simplistic for a restaurant of this level, we definitely appreciated the quality of the fresh seasonal greens, vegetables, and fruits that accompanied every course.