
Location: Middleburg, VA
Last Visited: February, 2009
Mobil Rating: N/A
Michelin Rating: N/A
My Rating: 6/10
Website:
visit siteThe Goodstone Inn and Estate is a charming country inn just a mile or so from the quaint streets of Middleburg, Virginia, a town notable for its antique shops and boutique stores, an island of small town independence in the shadow of greater Washington D.C. The property's history is known from colonial times, when in 1769 the land was purchased by Jamie “the Scot” Leith. In 1915 the estate was acquired by the Goodwin family, who named the plantation Goodstone. The current owner purchased the farm in 1996, renovated it and established the country inn. Today, the Goodstone Inn also features Hilltoppers, a restaurant for fine dining.
In October 2008, Chef Tarver King joined the Hilltoppers restaurant as its head chef after previously working as head chef for
The Dining Room at the Woodlands, a Mobil 5-star rated restaurant near Charleston, South Carolina. Not long ago, we enjoyed a wonderful and memorable meal at Tarver King's Chef's table at the Dining Room at the Woodlands. Before that, Tarver's resume included stints at restaurants including the French Laundry, Le Bec Fin, Fat Duck, and The Inn at Little Washington. An extremely talented chef, Tarver King has created a delightful menu at Hilltoppers reflecting the restaurant's farm-to-table cuisine, utilizing fresh and seasonal ingredients from the Goodstone and other local farms, and incorporating inspirational creations from his time in the Low Country near Charleston, South Carolina.
Upon entering the restaurant, we were warmly welcomed and seated. The dining room is intimate and charming, befitting a romantic country inn setting. We enjoyed glasses of champagne as we looked over the menu, and chose to enjoy the Chef's full tasting menu, specially prepared for Valentine's Day.

piquillo pepper,brandade,chorizo,garlic,pine nut; photo by Tarver King
A playful amuse bouche to start our evening consisted of a "shrimp crunch" on a fork and "eggs and bacon" on a spoon. The crispy shrimp was a scrumptious and well textured morsel to exercise our taste buds, it paired well with the delightful creaminess of the egg yolk, dashed with just a hint of crispy bacon.
Our first course was She-Crab Soup featuring sweet chunks of crab meat in a foam-like bisque, poured at the table. Traditionally, She-crab soup is South Carolina Low Country dish, featuring a rich soup, similar to bisque, made of milk or heavy cream, Atlantic blue crab meat, and finished with a splash of dry sherry. We greatly enjoyed this extraordinary version, the soup notable for being light, buttery, and foamy, complimented by the sweet natural crab meat texture. This dish was outstanding, and was our favorite of the evening.
Between courses, we absolutely loved the scrumptious biscuits and cheese puffs served with a creamy seaweed butter and special "white gold" sea salt flakes from Île de Ré. The southern style biscuits were melt-in-your-mouth good, and adorned with the intense butter and salt flakes, these were little slices of southern heaven.
The second course was a piquillo pepper stuffed with cod brandade, accompanied by a thin slice of chorizo, pine nut crumble, and visually attractive, mild sauces. The bright and delicate tangy flavors of this delicious dish were a perfect transition from the sweetness of the crab into the rest of the meal.
The third course, really the main course in miniature for the evening, consisted of tender short rib meat folded inside a plump, delicate ravioli, topped with a slice of a perfectly cooked beef loin with mushroom brodo and baby turnips. Savory and salty, this dish was light in texture consistent from earlier courses, and satisfied with flavor explosion. While highly salty, perhaps just a bit too much so, this did not detract greatly from the succulent meat and mushroom flavors. This was another fine dish, although perhaps not sufficiently filling to feature on its own as the main savory dish for the evening.
Next followed a very unique warm cheese course of ossau iraty, a Basque sheep's milk cheese, melted on top of a "pomme darfin" potato galette and accompanied by tart candied apples, bits of bacon, and sherry vinegar. By itself, ossau irary is a delightful creamy and nutty cheese with pleasantly complex flavors. Melted in this combination, it joined to form a mildly textured combination with playful sweet, tart, and salty flavors. As the fourth and middle dish of the seven course meal, this nontraditional cheese course featured the most subtle and complex flavors of the evening. We really enjoyed this, although it may have been better to feature this dish earlier, or to offer another savory dish to bolster the short rib ravioli before this one.
We next enjoyed a champagne granite flavored with currants and lavender. This was an excellent palate cleanser, the champagne and tart currant flavor stripping preparing our taste buds for the meal's conclusion.
Two dessert courses followed. A lime parfait in a glass layered with blueberry gastrique, hazelnut, and meringue was light and flavorful. Last, a dish of miniature chocolate crepes was served with roasted banana cream and cocoa nibs. This dish too was pleasantly mild, tasteful, and not overly sweet, offering a most delicious conclusion to this romantic dinner.
Hilltoppers at the Goodstone is a lovely restaurant in a magical setting, and shows a lot of promise as a new and exciting destination for fine dining in the region. Chef Tarver King is an extremely talented chef, and our Valentine's Day menu showed off delicate textures and flavors that satisfied without overwhelming the palate. As a maturing chef, Tarver King has created a more consistent dining experience at Hilltoppers than we experienced previously at the Dining Room at the Woodlands. We missed some of the magic from some very special dishes at the Woodlands. We nonetheless greatly enjoyed ourselves and look forward to coming back for more foodie adventures at Hilltoppers!